yashica mat 124g

I Got Up At Silly A Clock To Shoot Some Velvia

I Got Up At Silly A Clock To Shoot Some Velvia

Join me on a photography adventure in Richmond Park, as I set out with my Holga WPC and Yashica Mat 124G to capture the beauty of autumn. Discover the magic of different film stocks as I experiment with Fuji Pro 400H, CineStill Redrum, Velvia 50 and Velvia 100, capturing stunning landscapes and intimate wildlife encounters. From the golden hues of Velvia 50 to the unique and funky colors of Velvia 100, see how the different film stocks bring my images to life. Come along on my journey as I capture moments of wonder in one of London's most picturesque parks

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Starting With Yashica Mat 124G | The Ultimate Conversational Camera

Starting With Yashica Mat 124G | The Ultimate Conversational Camera

The Yashica Mat 124G is a popular medium format twin lens reflex (TLR) camera that was commonly used in the 1970s. It is known for its 80 millimeter F 3.5 lens and the ability to accommodate a range of ISO film speeds from 25 to 400. The camera also has an onboard light meter and various other features that make it easy to use for film photography enthusiasts.

To use the Yashica Mat 124G, photographers can preview the scene through one lens and take the photograph with the other. The camera has a dial on the left side for adjusting the focus, and a dial on the right side for adjusting the shutter speed and aperture. It also has an onboard light meter and a cold shoe on the left side for attaching accessories. Loading film into the camera is a simple process by opening the bottom, removing the spool, inserting the film, and securing it in place.

There are several reasons why photographers might choose to use the Yashica Mat 124G, including the high image quality produced by medium format film cameras, the opportunity for creative control and intentionality in the photographic process, and the unique aesthetic of film. However, there are also some potential drawbacks to using a film camera like the Yashica Mat 124G, including the cost of film and development, the inconvenience of not being able to instantly review and edit photographs, and the risk of losing or damaging film negatives. Ultimately, the decision to use a film camera like the Yashica Mat 124G will depend on the individual preferences and goals of the photographer.

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Provia 100F

I was using Provia 100F which is a Fujichrome Slide Film on the Yashica Mat 124G. 

I was quite excited to use this film as it comes quite strongly recommended for portrait style shoots. However, before shooting I was aware that the film stock is not very forgiving due to its relatively narrow exposure latitude. In effect, it wouldn't perform well if over exposed. 

The shoot day was quite  overcast which provided a natural softbox however you can see from the image histogram that the highlights have clipped. Alongside this, there is a slight reddish tinge to the image itself. 

Let's see how we can edit this in lightroom, the first thing would be to sort out the white balance and you can use the picker tool to select a point from the image to balance this from. 

Lightroom 2021 has new functions such as this masking tool. I am quite keen on reducing the reddish tinge to this image and bringing out the colours in the background.The image as is, is a little dull and would like it to pop a little bit more. It’s also an opportunity to see how Provia comes out with some tweaking in Lightroom 2021! 

The first step to achieve this would be to go ahead and use the masking tool in Lightroom. It’s pretty cool to see how it automates this. 

Now that Luke has been selected, let's scroll down and reduce this reddish colour by adjusting the saturation. That’s better, I don't want to go overboard on this so I’m going to move on to adjusting the graffiti backdrop. 

I’ll create a new mask and this time invert it so the adjustments only affect that graffiti. Unclick the overlay so I can see how the adjustments look. First, I’ll adjust the exposure, that looks about right. Let’s bring the highlights down a little too. I do like the ‘dehaze’ tool, you can see if you whack it right to 100% what happens but that is way too much so let’s bring that down to something more reasonable. 

Adjusting the shadows to see what it can lift out further, again just a slight adjustment here. I want those blacks to be a a little deeper in colour. The background is looking much more vibrant and richer than before. 

Let’s make a few final adjustments to Luke, bring up the exposure a little along with the shadows to get a bit more of an even look. Those reds still popping out a little so I’m going to bring that down a bit further. That looks good to me! 

Now when you look at these images side-by-side. The original image on the left looks flatter and dull where as on the right the portrait itself is looking more balanced and my goal to bring out the vibrance in the background has been achieved! Perhaps adjusting the red in the graffiti might add to it but I’m good. What are your thoughts on this edit, how would you have approached it? Do you edit your film images or not? Tell me in the comments below! Check out this video next! See you on there! 

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Acing Blur Right In Film Photography

When Oskar Barnack publicly introduced his first Leica camera, in 1925, at the Leipzig Springfair in Germany, it was the culmination of many years of refinement since he joined Lietz in 1911.

Barnack was a design engineer by profession and was originally working on a movie camera when ran into a problem. Emulsion speeds of films were unreliable and accurate metering was all but impossible. Barnack took it upon himself to build a small device intended to test small batches of movie film.

The film complete with its iconic sprocket holes, formed the beating heart around which Barnack designed the system which revolutionised photography - it is without a doubt that he was the creator of miniature 35mm was known for decades. 

These sets of images were taken on a Yashica Mat 124G with a roll of the wonderful Kodak Tri-X 400. I know you’re probably hopping out of your seat at the minute thinking well why did you start off by talking about the 35mm camera! Well its kind of ironic that Barnack’s system was developed out of cinematography and just shows how this innovation has moved and developed over time! 

I digress, this picture was taken in Central London, using a shutter speed of ten seconds. The film has recorded the motion of the skaters jumping over obstacles conveniently placed for them to practice their skills and tricks. The skaters blurred, of course, producing a soft and gentle abstract pattern which contrasts greatly with the crisp detail of the obstacles, and which suggests the neverending and timeless flow of movement. 

It is not an effect that could have been produced by using a high shutter speed to freeze the skaters: in any case. In any case, if you did what to do that you would have had to use flash in these extremely low light conditions. With the obstacles crisp there would have been a powerful focus of attention on the foreground and background and consequently all character and depth in the image would have been lost.  

In this picture there's a strong feeling of the passage of time. Blur is very powerful - especially when designed into an image or photograph. When it happens such as through camera shake it is nothing more than an obvious mistake or lack of knowledge. Therefore for blur to work effectively it has to be planned. And you can make effective use of it by showing it in the main subject or in supporting elements of the picture - such as the background - and for a variety of reasons. 

Some fun ways to explore a purposeful blur might be trying to shoot cars or motorbikes on the move. Or perhaps even at home with your children, nephews or nieces while they are running circuits around you in their ever boundless energy. Can someone please tell me how I can get that back again! Blur can very much enhance your photography but has to be used appropriately for every subject to maximise its effect.

The human eye is not like the eye of a camera lens. When you are watching a fast object moving your eyes are able to focus on the object and blur away the less important information in the background. Unfortunately, the camera lens if used with a fast shutter speed will most likely capture everything in sharp and vivid detail. 

The problem with this is that your image will look dead static. Consequently it won't look natural to the subconscious mind and your rational mind will most likely dismiss the image. You can get around this issue by using a technique known as 'panning'. 

As soon as a moving subject such as a motorbike or car - is clearly framed in the viewfinder you must swing the camera to follow the subject, and press the shutter while still moving. As a result the photo will show the subject against a background which blurs in horizontal lines - and the effect is a very convincing impression of motion in the image. Don't forget, for panning to be successful, you must keep the subject in the same spot in the viewfinder during the move, and to fire the camera shutter smoothly, carrying on swinging till the shot is well and truly finished. 

If you dont pan correctly or at all the background will come out sharp and the subject you wanted in focus blurred. The motorbike, car or your nephew running will attract far less attention. Ultimately, photography is another means of communication between you and the viewer. 

The use of blur in photography not only shows motion but through it the passage of time. As any object that is moving is still taking time to move. As a result you can see the difference between each second in time which goes against the grain of Henri-Cariters Bresson’s instruction to find one split second in which to take the shot. 

Cartier Bresson's 'decisive moment' refers more to the arrangement of his subject than to the timing. Time and its passing can be suggested in one shot -  such as these skaters- but there's no need to stop at one. Perhaps shooting with a 35mm camera you will be able to capture a set of images which makes this a more practical way of shooting blurred images.

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Zeiss Ikon Nettar vs Yashica Mat 124G with Ilford Delta 400

These cameras both use the 6x6 picture format on Medium Format film. The Zeiss Ikon Nettar being the older more rustic version in comparison with the Yashica Mat 124G.

You can have a look at some of my previous videos on the Zeiss Ikon Nettar here.

It was time to test out both cameras under the same conditions using the same film (Ilford Delta 400) and settings throughout. This way I could see how they would perform and what differences potentially could pop up.

Taking a leaf from the Thoreau and his wandering walks in the wild I decided to take a walk of my own in the urban jungle. The walk started on a bright sunny but cold and windy Spring day. I saw these newly painted houses and thought that would be a good place to start.

Surprisingly switching between both cameras was quite seamless. Having the Yashica Mat 124G around my neck and the Zeiss Ikon Nettar tucked away in my jacket pocket. I found taking the folding camera out easy to quick take out of my pocket and snap the shot in frame.

Each time I tried to align it as closely to where the lens from the Yashica was pointing and snap it from that perspective. You can see from the first shot the tones have come out darker in the Yashica on the car and trees. This was to become a consistent theme throughout all the images.

I carried on along and found a side entrance to some apartments which I wandered down to see if there was a route to the other side through. After a short walk through some pastel pink coloured buildings (which I was very much tempted to snap but then thought I don’t have Portra 800 loaded!) I came to a dead-end. I turned back and looked up to see this staircase winding down the side of the building with just the right amount of light on it. While I did my best to shorten the interchange time between cameras, the light had changed slightly after snapping first on the Yashica Mat 124G. The tones have come out a bit darker on the Zeiss Ikon Nettar probably due to the reduction of light on the frame. On a side note, I did find framing and shooting the shot upwards a little tricky and fiddly.

I double-backed on myself and got back to the street where I started from and carried on, turning left and find this row of Victorian Houses. I do like a chequered entrance and with a bike in frame it was a winning combination. The images are almost identical here in tonality, although I slightly prefer the framing on the Zeiss Ikon Nettar.

Coming to the end of the road, I had a decision to make, whether to carryon walking straight or turn left. The decision was made by the graffiti on the wall on the left hand side. Be Happy! The clouds were starting to draw over and the light was intermittent and variable. The framing on the Yashica 124G has come out better probably because of the viewfinder which allows for a more intuitive framing experience. The Zeiss Ikon Nettar has a little square viewfinder which is not entirely accurate in giving you a realistic view of what the image will turn out to be.

The low-ish walled bridge was just about reachable to place my camera on top and capture a few snaps of the railway lines. Initially, I had thought about taking the images of the train tracks but then saw these trains coming along and decided to shoot those in frame. Next time, I’ll stick with the railway lines!

London ‘Mews’ streets are just the best to shoot. More recently, I have seen a trend in these little side streets being blocked off to the public which is quite sad. Capturing the vanishing point of this street on the square 6x6 format was a bit tricky. It would be interesting to see how a 6x9 format would fare here.

The architecture was starting to change as I crossed the main road. Moving away from terraced Victorian homes to more detached villa style homes. Notable persons of historical interest even resided in these homes from almost over a century ago.

As you can see from the image comparison, both cameras came out with near identical shots. The only real difference between the two being with the Zeiss Ikon Nettar shots coming out lighter and less constrasty on the blacks.